'56 F600 Shorty build (lots of pics)

As Dave thankfully reminded me this is definetly the place to share this build... ok I probably should be in the "large" truck section, but I figure I'm tettering on the edge of fitting in here. So I'll be posting here as well as I'm pretty sure I'll get the exact opposite opinion than I would if I was at the HAMB or something, lol... I don't think they like me over there. Ok to the build!

First off I am NOT finished, this is just an "in progress" topic

I'll be going into a lot of different things and probably getting into too much detail, so feel free to jump around. I'm mainly writing this out in case someone else goes to do it at a later date so they won't have to search through so much information.


It's important to note a few things here:

1) The truck is going to have 4x4 axles in the future, this will raise the front end. This effected my choice on how to shorten the wheel base quite a bit.

2) My frame has a flat top, no kickup.

3) There is an extensive amount of custom work that needs to follow here. From widening, lengthening and making the fenders taller, to custom bed mounts, custom running boards, ect. This is all custom, it's not something you can buy fitting parts for.


Where she's at as of today (4-6-10)





Bed info:
From 1953-1972 the beds are the same with the exception of the mounting holes on the fenders being a little higher after 56. The LONG beds from 53-72 are TALLER and WIDER, not just longer. From 1973-1979 the short beds where taller and wider, they are basicly a chopped long bed. From 76-79 they have a flat top.

I wanted the long bed's height and width, but not the stretched look. So the 73-79 beds became ideal. I searched for a bed for over half a year and finally got a decent deal on this 1978 bed. I will be angling the top later on, that easy for me. I'm a blacksmith I have the tools and the love for working with metal.



My truck had a wheel base of 154". Though this is great for when you're moving 20,000#s, it sorta sucks when you want a daily driver without a flat bed on it. I love the old step-side beds with a passion, I felt my truck had lost far too much style not having one. Before I even found this truck I wanted to build a 4x4, I got a great deal on this 600 and found it to have a lot of benefits for making a 4x4 truck. For one the front fenders have a larger opening and are wider (the truck is 80" wide in the front, an f-100 is 75.68"). The frame is also thicker and larger so I won't have to swap it out. The large wheels it has on now also lets me know where everything will go when I have my 4x4 wheels, so I can do metal work in the mean time.

However since these trucks have a drop axle in front to put in a straight axle causes the front to lift, to counter this you have to raise the back. The frame on my F-600 was sloped, by moving the axles forward rather than cutting the frame it caused the rear to raise up a few inches, this will help me out later (and to be truthful my current welder is getting a little tired and I think I would always have that wonder in the back of my head of weather or not the welds penetrated enough.)

It's more than likely that I will have a lot of custom work to get my truck to have the stance I want. I love large tires, but I don't like a lifted ride.


This old pic shows the frame, notice there is no kickup, the top is flat.





So I got my bed in:



It actually fit rather perfect, in truth cutting the frame would have made things A LOT easier on this build, but I was taking out about 44" and that is too much to do properly without going under the cab. The brackets can only be so close the weld and I would have had to have gone right through them:



The wheels fill the wheel well nicely, though I want the fenders a little wider (only about 1" each, right now the bed is 78" wide. If I was keeping the duallys I would add 4") but they may need a little extra in the middle for clearance and they do have to be lengthened a little, if nothing else to reach the running boards. The F-600s have lower running boards than F-100s, and it's still a climb up.

The first thing I did was take measurements of where everything was at, and took a picture of it all. This way there is no confusement later on:




I then removed all the rivets I could, leaving the ones on the bottom, I had done this prior to getting the bed while waiting. I used a large angle grinder, made a "cross" all the way through them and chiseled the heads off. I then made a tool that I could pound the rivets through with. For the most part it was fairly easy, though the ones on the spring stops I'm pretty sure where done by a rather evil person as 4 of them took me an hour, but I'll get to that.

The back was then lifted up and supported.



You'll notice the suspension was "loose", just keep in mind it means when you remove that last rivet it's going to "pop" down:





The driveshaft was unbolted and taped (lots of hammering and whatnot, best if the caps don't fall off those.)


After I pushed the axle forward a little, I placed the driveshaft on top of the axle so it didn't get pinned. The driveshafts (I have 2 connected) are to be done later, I just needed the axles moved in one day because I can't leave it where it's at too long:



Knew I forgot something; the break lines. Thankfully they had a disconnecting spot in a convenient place:



The wires go to the 2-speed differential. They where long enough I didn't have to undo them and reattach. Remember I'm planning on swapping axles after I move (moving a truck with a wheel base of 110" or so is A LOT easier and cheaper than one with 154", 154" is too long for almost everything. Plus I wanted my bed and to get to work, lol)

I had to prop the bed up to get the wheels to make it past the fenders. I didn't want to take it apart because I needed the fenders to be sure where to put the axle:



The bed was fairly easy to move on the truck myself, though they are heavy if you're moving it on or off. Like almost all my projects, it would be a lot easier to have a helper or two, I'm just use to doing it by myself cause no one else is as crazy or motivated as I am, lol.

After I had moved the axles forward a little I found I needed to raise the frame a bit more because the brackets where as far as they could go. So I made sure the brackets hadn't turned upside down and jacked up the axle which pushed up the frame, then I moved my support up further and added some spacers. Much better:




The original holes in the back were not large enough for my frame, though the bottom supports still sat square on my frame, it seems somewhere alone the lines on the '78 the frame or brackets moved:



I'll be going back later, but for now I just cut it to where I needed it and made sure it was sitting on the bracket inside not the cover:



I will have to make some custom brackets underneath as the ones on it where made for a frame with a kick up, meaning the two in the middle don't touch the frame currently.

After that I lined the bed up, spacing it 1" from the cab. It was a little dented in a few areas, so lots of checking and paying attention to the dents.


Once the bed was where I wanted it I moved the axles into position. I measured the from the fender to the wheel to center it, which proved interesting cause I actually have 2 different sizes on my rear wheels. (there are actually 3 sets of tires, and on the rear they're miss-matched, but better that then one side with 2 horrible tires, lol)

And then I came across my stupidest problem, the spring stops.



Right in the way. These where evil to remove. I had tried to remove them earlier, cutting them from the back and trying to pop them out. These 4 little rivets would not budge with both heads removed and everything flush. In the end I had to drill them out and beat the spring stop back and forth.



I also had to remove the bottom rivets to the differential connector support as the bracket went right over it and I wouldn't be able to get to it later. I had already moved all the ones on top before putting the bed on.


Then came a lot of measuring and back and forth checking. I worked off a spot on the front axle, but also checked other places. Keep in mind that even if they drilled every hole perfectly in the same spot on either side, that the rivets have a forged down head and there by can be off center or fatter, ect, so you don't want to measure off of that, at least without checking to be sure the edge of it is exactly the same from like the front axle on either side.

I got everything within 1/16" and then I jacked up the rear axle again to make the brackets snug. Then I checked everything again.

Once it was all good, I drilled. I used a 7/16" bit, it's a little larger than the rivets where, but starting with it I was able to make the hole dead center. I tried to "step it" but I found it kept wanting to pull the hole off to one side or another. It's slower but by keeping with just the one bit I was able to make a nice hole:



Be sure to use A LOT of cutting fluid. It makes it go easier if nothing else.

Once there I cleaned up the hole to make sure no metal shards where going to touch the bolts. Then I used 7/16" bolts and washers. GRADE 8.
I tightened the nut, not the bolt, after putting on some red lock-nut to 95lbs.


I only currently have a couple bolts in, at this point I had been working 7 hours and the sun had gone away. Today it's rain/snowing.

I post more on this, including tools and when I do the driveshaft, ect.


This is how she sits now and where I have to work (but I'm grateful for a place to do it!):



And this is my never ending audience. Least I got over my "I can't work when you watch me" thing:




There is still A LOT of custom work to do, but this was a big step on getting there.
















Like I said, A LOT of custom work left to do, but I'm glad to finally have a bed, ha. This wasn't the ideal way of doing it, from where it had to be done or whatever, but it needed to be done and it's what I had. Lots left to do, lots to come. Any questions feel free to ask, I may not know the answer but I'm good at pretending like I do, lol.



edit: Today I'll be checking the driveshaft and getting to bolting things down more. Still lots and lots to do, I'll probably paint it (its just a cheap paint job at the moment) so the bed isn't white with green pinstrips before the week is out, even though I'll still have to work on the fenders, ect.

In case anyone reading in the future wants to cut the frame, here is Ford's manual on the big trucks:

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q18.pdf

And here is a link showing someone using the "Z" cut:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319393&highlight=chevy



From what I've gathered there are a few important things to know when cutting the frame:

1) You can only have the cut so close to the brackets, I think the pdf of Ford's mentioned it at 8", but double check

2) Having the Fish plate too strong will cause the frame to break at the ends of the fish plate. The frame needs to be able to flex

3) If you're doing a truck that will have a heavy payload how you shorten it becomes a lot more critical. Most use the "z" cut, Ford said in the file to use a long diagonal cut, they get into it a lot, no need to here.

4) The fish plate should be the same thickness as the frame, usually made from the piece of steel you cut out. It's diamond in shape usually and has the tips ground to be a half circle at 1"

5) Definitely research it more than this post before doing it. Things vary and it be a bad idea to not double check on something so important to your truck.


I've been told by a guy who use to do this (who actually sold me my bed) that if you just bolt in the fish plate that its the way to go. Never done either. Grade 8 bolts, washers and nuts and lock-nut should be used. If the washers or nuts are not grade 8 as well, they will fatigue and eventually fail overtime, least that was the reasoning I found for them while searching.

Hi Stephen,

Welcome Man... Don't sweat the category too much, that's kind of up to you anyway. We're not that picky over here. BTW, I made your build tyhread here a sticky so it will stay to the top with the other build threads

I couldn't say much over there without the board Nazis coming down on me. I'll tell you this, those two assholes are the reason I started this board. They see themselves as God's gift to the Ford truck world and neither of them has ever built anything. Number Dummy is a retired parts counter man and the Col. is not really a Col in anything. He got that name from playing a bit part in a Canadian "B" movie production of a dime novel from a series of books written by an English author. Other than that he's a bum with no regular employment that lives off his relatives and happens to own one of the old 60's series pick ups with a modified 300 six in it. He's pretty much as fake as his acting is. As for Walford, He's a decent guy but he should have known better than getting into that and worst of all agreeing with the Col. I know Bill personally and I have bought and traded stuff with him. He's just the kind of guy that feels he needs to get in there and say something. Sometimes he would be better off not to say anything. That was a lesson I learned over there a long time ago. There is no use engaging in any kind of confrontation with those guys because you can't fix stupid. I do keep an eye on what's going on over there and occasionally post something. Mostly I hit the other categories for tech questions about various Ford trucks. I belong to 12 or so boards that cover about everything Ford has made. The only people that interest me are the ones that actually do things. When I find them over there I invite them over here. The Col. will never be on this board even if he tries to get on He's already blocked. The best he can do is read as a guest here.

Anyway, we're glad to have you and your build thread.

Later Man...


Later

lol thanks.

I'm use to getting flack for some ideas. After all if you're working outside of the box someone out there is going to have a problem with it. Truthfully the only thing that even got a response out of me was the word "butchering". The word insults my workmanship, not the idea. I honestly can't see how it could be used any other way; lets say someone was chopping the roof of a truck, even if you hated the idea you wouldn't call it butchered unless he did such a poor job that it be easier to cut it all off and get a new one. To me the word is a personal insult and I have a thing against those who insult others abilities.

It just all struck me as a little hypocritical to say it should be left alone. It's no different than swapping out any part, even a new one instead of rebuilt or something. And honestly, who cares? I mean really, it's an F-600, these are not in demand. At all. Everyone wants to build an F-100, they don't see how the larger trucks are so much of the same for a much cheaper price if you just work out side the box a little. And even then, something is only worth what people are willing to pay for it. If I made this truck completely stock, 100% correct down to the wire, whats the most I could see for it? Maybe $10k to a very rare group of people? But if I made it something unique and awesome, that becomes a lot more desirable and suddenly if I needed to sell it (not that I ever will, honestly) there are a lot more people who want it and I could get a lot more for it. After all, who wants a mint-green truck other than a forest ranger? lol, sure it's pretty but these things look so much better in another color.

Besides, I want to enjoy it, to make it mine. Its a business truck and as a blacksmith artist it effects what people think of my "vision" or style and ability. It says more about me than a lot of things to clients. The '56 flows and has great style, it's eye catching but not in an annoying way, it's timeless and regaurdless of who you are at the very least you "like" the truck, even if you're a die hard Chevy guy or something. But thats all just extra benfits, I bought it cause it's exactly what I wanted. I believe things should be built like you're the last person on earth and no one else is ever going to see it. Make it what makes you happy, after all isn't that why we build? Or at least why we should?


Anyways, enough on that rant. I stopped listening to Col. when he mentioned people just being lazy for not building a garage big enough, cause don't-cha know it's worth it to buy the land and build a garage and spend $100,000 on something you paid $750 for... He is the kind of guy who says it can't be done, that it's impossible and blah blah blah, but they are the people that feed me to do it, just to prove them wrong, lol. Not my fault they can't see more than what's right there in front of them. Those inside the box mock those outside of it, us who like to "reinvent the wheel" do so and everyone benefits from what is invented, it's not safe like inside, but at least you're actually doing something other than just repeating what you've been told.

As far as Walford goes, he was honest but not rude, I had no problem with what he said. I took it as that he would not personally have built it that way. And I share the same opinion with a lot builds and chops or whatever cause if I didn't I would be doing the same obviously... but I never say it cause it's not my truck and I'm just happy to be enjoying the build with people who are doing the same. I figure we very rarely share the same cup of tea, but we're all in the same cafe solicalizing and enjoying the drink as it where. Once you start arguing over whats best no one is enjoying it anymore.

btw I love that quote in your signature and will have to steal it for sure. lol

I figured my project was going real well when the local PD stopped by, not to check to see if it was safe or tell me it was in the way or something, just to talk about how much he liked it and to see what I was going to do with it and what not. Even when you have a kid on their bike go by and go "cool truck" it makes a difference. I usually end up talking to at least one person a day when I'm out there, even if it's raining.



Today much progress, but nothing real pretty to look at. I put in the remaining bolts, 16 total. I don't think I am going to put in the suspension stoppers at this time, thats another 16 bolts and 8 rivets I still have to remove... and 16 holes to drill.

Drilling the holes sorta sucks. It takes a decent amount of push, they only take about 5 minutes, but thats 5 minutes that you're pushing will all your might. It starts to get exhausting. The ones on the top I couldn't step-drill because the bit was too short and the drill hit the bracket, the bottoms ones I could.

My suggestions on it; get it all lined up, make sure it's flush everywhere and start with the bottom. If you do the ones on the side first you'll have difficulty getting the socket over the nut.

Heres what I used:



GRADE 8 Bolts, washers and nuts at 7/16". Some go with 1/2".

Lock-nut, the red grade stuff.

Wrenches and sockets (5/8 and 11/16" is what I needed)

Torque wrench.

7/16" drill bit, new

3/16" drill bit (for "stepping")

WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AND A FACE SHIELD, those bits of metal go everywhere, and are hot. If one gets in your eye it will melt itself in. It is unbelievably painful.



Once you have drilled the hole, clean it out and the area around it. When drilling you need to use cutting fluid, not only does it make it cut easier and thus quicker, it also saves the life of your drill bit. If you're "stepping" the hole, meaning to drill a smaller hole then a bigger one, which goes a lot quicker, don't worry too much about it having to be perfectly center, the bracket will keep the larger bit in line. If you want it dead center though for whatever reason, though it's not critical like I said, I suggest using the larger drill bit, and reaming out the bracket while it's on, when you hit the frame it will remove a little and let you know where it's dead center. You'll still have to center punch it though otherwise it will move on you. I was not able to use any smaller bits on the top ones because it wouldn't reach and a long bit would snap given the force I was using.



Before I got too far I had to remove the two driveshafts because the bracket for where they meet was over the suspension bracket. This meant if I put in the bottom bolt for the suspension, I would go through the other bracket and not be able to remove it.



After removing 2 more rivets that told me they had been there all their life and weren't going to move over their dead bodies, which proved to be the case, I removed it with a hammer. Before I hit it:



I smacked it loose and then started to alternate sides I hit, meaning I was turning it clockwise (direction doesn't matter, I'm just right handed). It will turn up the corner a little on the top of the bracket, but not much and it's an easy fix if you need it again. It had a bracket riveted on to hold the barrings for the drive shaft (think I was half way to taking that off the bolted on part to this in the pictures)

Once out she was decently heavy, not as much as that driveshaft which has got to be a lot thicker than normal.



I wrapped the yoke on this so it wouldn't come loose... I've had the caps fall off before, it sucks so bad if those little pins fall out...




Now, my driveshaft issue. I put the one still attached to the transmission up to see where it ended up:



Notice the end without the tape on the driveshaft earlier? That yoke slipped on over the end of this one.

I figure I have a couple options here;

1) Though it looks short in the picture, with that slip on yoke it's actually a little too long. I can cut the shaft down and weld it a little bit shorter.

1b) I can cut the end off the other driveshaft and weld that on (I still have to check if the yokes are the same though)

2) I can shorten the driveshaft attached to the transmission (it have about 4" of body) and bolt down the support and have 2 driveshafts still.


I figure I'll be ok with the balance issue when shortening. Least thats what everyone tells me and thats what I'd like to believe, lol. It's not like it will see high speeds at this time, it would need a lot done before that which would effect the driveshaft anyways. I'll have to give it a little thought.


Tomorrow the pictures get pretty again. I'll be painting the bed and figuring out how I want to bolt that thing down, I don't think I want to go through the wood like it was originally. I still need to address my tailgate hinge issue and cut the excess frame off, which also means getting off those tail lights and thats going to be interesting, I may just have to cut the wires or something as they go through the nut and there is no way I can get a wrench in there, they added a lot back there. We'll see.

Welcome Stephen great to have you on here.Your in the right place you have a great project there. This forum is about making it your own and not restoration purists so go at it and keep us posted on your progress

Thanks ^_^


Lot of different things I could do today, in the end I just felt like some fender work.

I haven't finished this side yet, but there was A LOT to do.

I clamped on a piece of steel on the bottom of the running board to let me know how far down the fender will have to go in the back.



The current running boards actually sit about 1/2" lower than the front fender, after taking that into account I found I needed to add 4", which proved to be very awesome as I have A LOT of 4" metal that I've had for almost a decade behind my shop, just waiting. It's also awesome cause 4" is exactly what I needed to add the width of the fenders.




The first thing I had to do was patch the fender. It had been cut by the PO who cut the fender to remove the running boards on it...



Once that was done I had to forge a piece to fill 4". To make it look right the piece had to twist in several different places, other wise it wouldn't have flowed and just looked like I added a chunk. Its not cleaned up in these pictures and some of the weld's height does show up:










Then came the fun part, widening the fenders. I love the look of a widened fender and on this truck it truly sold me on keeping duallys. The main problem is that it needs to have an angle, not be just straight. If I attached it just straight it would be the green line, to continue the fenders line makes for the red one.



It makes it a little bit bigger to continue the flow of the fender, but if I hadn't it would look cheesy. Plus a bigger fender isn't a down side on this truck.

So I cut a piece of steel...


And I started to weld. I welded it onto the end. I didn't cut the fender. Reason being is doing so would have made the extension flat, like that green line above, and by keeping the angle I will need to remake the flange for the bolts anyways, which I still have to do.



The piece was welded and relief cuts where made when ever they where need. They haven't been welded up yet and in these pictures I hadn't aligned anything either. I still have to do the back of the fender.

It was just resting on the bolts, not attached, so it isn't sitting how it will in the end.












After seeing it on there I was simply sold on the duallys.

lol there is a new way to do all of this?



Been working but not too much to show just yet. Friday I worked on some hinges for the tail gate, and today I finished up one of the fenders.

I took these pictures before cleaning the welds up, it will need a little filler later on, but I want to do that right and when I actually paint the truck (rather than "this paint job just keeps the rust away" type job). Gives an idea of how much had to be modified and fixed.



In a couple of days I'll have the DR side one finished, then I'll get them back on the bed with some paint too. Still have a lot left to do even with just making it usable till I can get it really clean and finished...

Yeah right now the paint I'm using is just a some Rustoleum to protect everything till I can get to it. Also cause it was 9 different colors and didn't have a cool patina, just looked like it had leprosy, lol.



She'll be House of Kolors Candy Apple Red kandy over a gold base when I actually paint it. That might change slightly, but I figured for a blacksmith's truck that combo really looks alive and like fire. Plus from what I've researched candy paints first happened in '56, granite they where nothing like the ones today, but still, lol.

I'll go back and do all the dents and what not later on, I'll have to do some welding on the bed and everything else before she's "done". This is just Stage 1 of about 10. Until I can strip everything down to bare metal properly and fix what I need to and get the level of filler and primer and what not I want to us, there isn't much point in taking it too far. Right now anything I do in the cosmetics will be undone later... but having a front that was 7 different colors than the bed was just too big of a button with me, lol.

Thought I posted here today, guess not...



Well, busy day today! I "finished" the other fender and got them both on and sorta painted... its taking like 9 coats on the back.

I'd like to point out everything I'm doing now I will be going back and doing at a later time when I have more time and funds and all the parts I really need. This stage is just about getting the look I want and making sure its what I want in the end, I'm not even using any filler.


I've said before that I have 3 different tire sizes on this, unfortunately one of the larger sized tires is on the outside on the drivers side. The fender doesn't touch, but boy does it come close. I think I will swap its location with the other wheel on that side, making it the same as the passenger side... I have about 1-2" on either side of the tire on that side. They also don't go past the fender, that one tire is wider too, and newer with actual tread on it, lol.




The have NO filler on them currently, the differences are only about 1/16" and the tiny dip in the weld has made a bit of a line that shows where I welded. Super easy to fix with filler, but I don't want to use filler till I'm buying the good stuff and have a good primer to go over it. No point in wasting the time and money right now.












Still needs more paint on the back, after 3 coats and still seeing some pin strip lines I decided just to stop for today and get some pictures while I still had some light. I'll probably take tomorrow off with it, moving those fenders (they're about double in weight after extending everything) and that massive angle grinder have worn me out a bit after a couple weeks and I don't want to burn out.



Still have to attach the bed, the tailgate (missing a hinge) and cut the excess off... and make a bumper... and do the driveshaft... and paint. Then this stage is done and I probably won't do too much more till I move.

lol yeah I was going to put the anvil there but it would just kill my gas milage, lol


Still no 4x4 parts yet, I'm having trouble finding exactly what I need at a price I can afford with it (you can find anything for $10,000 but if I had that much money for this I wouldn't put it into just one axle!). I need to find a strong set of 4x4 with 4.10 gearing (remember big tires) and a unmarried transfer case... not to mention the powertrain. I almost had axles but the front turned out to be IFS and it was off a squirlly year, people kept swapping them out for straight axles...

Right now I'm still doing everything on the side of the road, by the time I had the money or the deal for the powertrain I really want I'll hopefully have moved and have a roof over it, lol

Yeah... 3 years I've been looking to move, a lot longer than I've lived in some places! Just sorta one of those moves that more than just a new location.

I figure the rights parts will show up when it's time, right now unless they're free I'm not quite in the market, lol. I honestly don't care if they're Ford parts or not, but I have a feeling it might be worth it to stick with them just to minimize people getting their panties in a twist and complaining, lol.



Tomorrow I cut off the excess and work on the bumper. Today I finished a custom set of tailgate hinges and moved the lights forward. The lights are just temp, just what I had.






I only had one hinge and the bolts from the old ones where broken off and not coming out, so I made some new ones. I liked the look of the originals, just went for a little cleaner.

There is are a couple bolts welded onto the back but cleaned flush that hold the hindges on. When I go back to it down the line I'll probably modify the tailgate so it doesn't look like there are any hinges at all.

Yep, a '94 Mark VIII, love the engine in that thing, makes for a great sleeper.


I'll have to find the picture again but I once saw a '69 Corvette with a Ford Boss engine in it, boy did that stir up some people, lol

Is his out of a mark 7 and not a mark 8?

The mark VIII came out in '93 and used a 4.6 L DOHC 32-valve V8, to my knowledge the mark 7 used a 5.0


Thats a pretty slick ride, love the paint job on that engine!

I'm looking but I'm not seeing the Super Coupe... noticed a 53-55 cab in the background though, lol


Well, just a quick days work on it today, mainly just cut off the excess frame, boy was that thing HEAVY. Thankfully it was long enough that I could cut the top and sides and notch the bottom and it would touch the ground. It weighed enough I had to use a dolly to move it, I figured "man'n up" wouldn't look so cool with a hernia.



Left in Stage one: Driveshaft. Rear Bumper. Running Boards.

Stage two consists of all the powertrain and driving stuff. Stage three is when I go back and do all of this at a much nicer level (dent free, little custom things like the corners and mirrors, candy paint job, ect). This was jus to get it where I basicly wanted the truck, its a lot like when you buy a new project and clean it up before really doing anything to it. When she's finished she'll look a lot like this, but much, much classier and a lot more "show" quality. I look at that truck every day and the lack of the bed was killing me, didn't look complete.

After I move I'll contiune the stages, unless I come across exactly the parts I'm looking for and suddenly have ootles of free cash. Stage two is going to be the most expensive by far...



Well, I'm not completely finished yet with this stage, but with the excess cut off it just looked different to me, maybe just "finalized" in shortening things up. So a bunch of pictures not really showing anything new, lol


Here is the truck before I got it home, I'd say before I touched it but I did try to take that broken compressor off, there was sooo much stuff on that bed:

here, before I actually touched it;


And when I first saw it in person, was about 10pm case my "help" was... well no need to rant.





And where I'm at now, close to the end of stage one:























Not bad for a couple weeks work and about $300...

Hey
After going through all the pics i remember the truck from fte,Good to see you got it and are doing some cool [OLD SCHOOL] things too it .I like those big dual wheels inside that shortbox .
Later Andrew