Tomget's 48F1 build thread

Hey Steveof1

Good to hear from ya. Glad your making progress on your truck. And I think you've made the right decision to have the pros do your exhaust--if at all possible. etc. If i could have. I would have. Like i said this current exhaust on my 48 with the big collectors-down low and easy to get to make it very easy. Plus I forgot to mention you'll probably also want to inlcude some kind of "cross over" exhaust pipe connection on your current build and that makes things even harder. I didn't put such a piece in this current 48, because "performance" is not such a "big deal". And its just that much more complicated when a "cross over" between the two exhaust pipes is added that has to avoid your drive shaft etc. Not impossible for sure--I fabbed/a kit crossover into my 58F100 and it was doable--just that much harder!! And when you're trying to hold everything in place--i would use wooden 4x6 pieces etc and pile them up under to hold stuff in place as the build continued it was a problem. I mean you knock the stuff down/you can't see around it etc. Its just awkward that's all. Good luck with the start up. You might want to take a little vid for us internet people, or just for your own scrapbook.

And you asked about how my 48 in running. It seems good. But I haven't used it much. I still don't have it insured/registered etc. I've got a nonop registration etc. But I drove it back and forth in the driveway and let it run on the street a bit in the front of the house and all looks good. I've gotten distracted for a few days while I work on some art projects for my JC night class. I still haven't welded the assembly. Its just all clamped together, but looks totally secure and sounds good. I plan to weld the adapter at the collector to the exhaust pipe and most everything else too, but also I'll probably leave the clamps/attached before and after mufflers because they also serve as hangers too. For better looks one can weld the hanger--just the top of it to the exhaust tubing etc--that's what I did on my 58 and get rid of all the clamps. But I'm not so "looks" influenced with this--or I should say I'm more utilitarian with the 48. They can't easily be seen anyway.

But its funny you asked about the battery box? I'll be interested about what you find. The PO put a box of some kind up high on the firewall of the passenger side. It may be a OEM box--I don't know. I've looked at the OEM units and how/where they mount etc-plus I've got catalog pics etc. But at the moment I still haven't installed those used inner fender panels--so not having any inner fender panels--as I recall the OEM bat goes drivers side? near steering box? down on inner fender panel somewhere--That may be all wrong, but somewhere down there as i recall. But anyway I need to move and replace the existing box because its worn and I probably? don't want it there? Not sure yet. Need to think about heater/hose routing etc and heater too. Don't yet have a heater. Don't have one in hot rods/don't want one particularly where we live etc. But with this 48 I want it to be as I said more "utilitarian" and I "dream" of the day I can drive it up to the big Portland swap meet. And of course that means driving up through those southern Oregon mountains in early April--often plenty of snow/freezing etc--Sometimes its clear, but no guarantee. I've seen it miserably snowey. Its only a few miles usually. But one can still be required to have chains etc, and a heater/ defroster would really be nice. So I'm working towards seeing where all should go etc.

My next step after getting those inner fender panels sandblasted/primed/painted/installed--the truck still has some of its OEM Green color, and I have a quart of(Sherwood Green?) something like that. So I'll get those done. And then I need to buy a replacement carb for the 312 y block. I've looked around on line etc and I'm thinking I'll buy a Holley 0-4412S Model 2300 500CFM 2 barrel with manual choke and cable assembly about $290+ s&h etc. It's available on Amazon and I might ask my local NAPA about it and if they can get a close enough price I'll buy it from them. I always prefer to spend my money with them because they're a great source of help to me and if at all possible I always buy from them.

After that I need some tires and a complete rewire and it should be ready for daily use. Not finished, but useable.

Goodluck with your startup, I'm sure it will go fine, but just in case--you probably know this, but try and do it outside/have a garden hose handy in case you have a cooling problem with radiator etc/also have at least one good size fire extinguisher/ and be far enough away from structures so you have access to all sides of your truck with ease/check all your fluids including gas before you start/put blocks behind your tires etc/and add tranny fluid--you have an automatic? as the motor idles/. I'm sure there's other good precautions I haven't thought of. And I'm certain you will not need any of these things(although this can be a good time to add automatic tranny fluid), but its always good to be prepared for the worst on a startup. If there were a problem--and I'm certain there won't be--you'll be glad you have these things at the ready.

Oh ya i meant to correct something I said in a previous post to you. And that was regarding your Sanderson Headers i said something about their giving you 4 of the "funnel" shaped adapters that allow you to mount the 3hole flange and connect to your exhaust pipe. All true--as i recall, but the reason you have 4 is not what i said--about different exhaust pipe sizes? isn't it because 2 of these funnel shaped adapters are straight? and 2 are angled? and your exhaust guy will use whatever he wants/needs and yes you will end up with 2 extra. I think that's more correct than what I said earlier. I used both angled adapters on my 58 and I'm guessing the left over adapters where the ones I used on my 48. At least I don't remember buying them. Hope i'm right about all this. If not "never mind"

Goodluck Tom

Hey all

Just wanted to say "no" I'm not dead -just missing in action". I've gotten derailed with other
non truck projects. I know that's "wrong", and I'll be better soon. But just been too busy
with other stuff--cool stuff-, but not as cool as any 48F1 so I'll get cracking on it
soon.

Goodluck
Tom

OK Dave

I'm heading out there right now--I just got back from Berkeley--and no one hurt me--I'm always a little
frightened going there. Its like a foreign country--but usually pretty nice I guess. Anyway I'm on my way out
to the shop. I've got these funky but useable front inner fender panels that I need to patch/straighten/
sandblast/prime/paint etc. I've got a little bit of the OEM green color epoxy paint--Sherwood Green??-something like. I've still got so much of the engine compartment OEM green color--I'm hoping to kinda
paint these inner fenders to "fit in" as best possible. Of course they won't have the 60 years of rust and such
but "they'll wear too".

Some people say I need to totally remove the fenders and front sheet metal to get these installed, and some say I might be able to remove
the front wheels and kinda "shimmy" them up from below thru the wheel opening etc. I don't know for sure, so I'll
let you know how i did it. In either case all the sheet metal fasteners are badly rusted, and even though I've soaked
them with Blaster--one of my favorite--I'll probably have to grind off most of the fastners. Myself, I'm thinking it will be easier--in this case to just remove all the front sheet metal--leave the hood on--and start over. As I understand all the front sheet metal kinda "hangs" on these inner fender panels--they are the support so I'll probably just remove it all
and put these in place and then "rehang" the front fenders and sheet metal around radiator etc. But we'll see. One thing at a time.

As I'm sure I mentioned earlier somewhere--the truck presently has no front inner fender panels--at all. Its all just a little suspended and hanging there somehow!! The hood+ will all fit better when these get back in place.



Goodluck
Tom

Hi all

Ya your right Dave, I'm not a big fan of sandblasting. I was when I was 16, but things change!!
Its such a mess!!

But I need it sometimes and I'm glad I've got one. I've used the pictured sandblaster since I bought
it used in the mid 1980"s? Some time ago, and it still works good and I've never done much maintenane
either. I have a supply of the little "ceramic or?" whatever cones/nozzles, but they last a long time
for me. I use this sandblaster with my just barely adequate air compressor. I can sandblast for maybe
2 or 3 minutes and then I usually pause for 2 or 3 minutes and go again. Its not like there's NO air
but at least this one needs hi pressure and a lot of air or it just gets to be a little useless stream
of air and sand. I like it when its a "big" stream of air and sand. My compressor is a Pro Air 6.5hp
80 gal 220 unit, and this is the second of this approx same size. I think I've had this one for
8 or 10years and its been pretty much trouble free. But bigger would be better!! I guess. I only notice
it when sandlblasting. Once in a while I use a air rachet--the big ones--for like taking off rusty
bolts or wheel lugs etc. And it works fine for that and also for painting--no problem. So its big
enough as long as I don't do a lot of sand blasting--and I don't.

I should make some welding repairs tomorrow--nothing fancy and fill a few holes and epoxy prime.
I'll probably put the finish paint on Sunday. If I have all the "additives" and I think I do.


Goodluck Tom

Hey Tom it's looking like your making progress too. I went with a Summit battery relocation kit which fits behind the passenger side of the seat in the cab. Start up went well, and I broke the cam in yesterday. Funnything is when I put the timing light on to check the settings it read 50 degrees, but was running smooth. I tried retarding it, but it wanted to stall. Kind of at a loss as to why, maybe a hei unilight distributor/ignition thing, just not sure!

Sounds good STeve.

Hey all

Been delinquent about working on the truck, but all this new found sunny weather is getting me out and active--including working on the 48.

I'm finally getting around to installing the front inner fenders which i believe I mentioned were missing when I bought the truck. Its not technical or anything but a little awkward with rusty and missing fasteners. I also sand blasted and epoxy primed/and finished painted with semi-gloss black enamel my OEM 16 wheels. I was a little worried about how the wheels would look when I had the long existant bias plys removed, but the wheels looked great. Even the original factory paint was intact. Only one wheel had any rust around the tire tube stem hole--the most worrisome place for rust I guess. And it was just somewhat pitted-not deeply-and I ground and smooth it with plenty of metal intact. I avoided sandblasting the tire mounting surface of the wheels as best I could because the existing factory paint is probably structurally better than the paint I can get around here these days. Each year we get new types of paints with everincreasing VOC limitations etc. I know I can get what I want on the internet or wherelse but I try as best possible to go along with the local regulations--I live here. Btw-these wheels--if I recall correctly--were bought in the late 70's or early 80's by the previous owner from a local
Ford dealer. They're not the trucks original wheels. That's probably why they're in such great shape--rust wise etc. because the truck was stored/not used for ages outside which can be bad.

I also got my rear new snow tires mounted, 650x16 bias plys. And I picked up the front same size bias plys
regular black wall Firestones for the front.

Goodluck Tom

Oh, I forgot.

Here's those painted inner fenders.

Tom

As the weather continues to improve I'm getting more done. I mostly work in my driveway under an awning because the shop is a little too dark--I got old man/bad vision lol. I've got the inner fenders installed. It wasn't hard, but it was awkward and clumsy. Old rusty fastners--some of which I wanted to reuse because they thread into existing OEM caged type nut etc--mostly around the radiator support etc.
I had to totally remove the driver side fender--it was more collision damaged, but I was able to leave the passenger fender attached and just slide the inner fender up from below--after removing the wheel/tire etc and resting the drum on a wooden pedestal. I'm still missing a couple little sheet metal do dads because of the slightly damaged replacements, but the hood nicely opens and closes now--a new experience. And I'll keep tweaking it as I fab a few needed replacement sheet metal type things.

As this is my first F1 I'm still learning. And along that line someone gave me a heads up that my radiator support has two positions. The 6cylinder position further towards the front of the truck--to allow for the longer 6 cylinder motor, and the V8 position close back closer to the motor. I didn't know there was such a thing, and I was struggling with how to get the OEM radiator closer to the mechanical fan of my 312Y block. I was fussing around with some sort of hairbrained mod to achieve same and someone helped me out. Thanks. So for the uninitiated the radiator support is held in place by both the inner fender panels and the front crossmember. Its easy to undo the 2 bolts in the crossmember below and the 3 bolts on either side connecting to the front innerfenders and just slide it back or forward etc. The extra set of holes already exists in the crossmember and the inner fender panels as well. So its a kinda "universal" setup and the assembly line must have chosen the correct location for the inline 6 or the shorter V8 depending on what they were assembling that day.

And now my problem is solved. I'm getting a replacement radiator and hoses and such--haven't bought em yet--they're in the financial Q but hopefully next month. But I've mocked things up with the existing radiator/hoses/fan/spacer etc and all is very doable. Much closer than before. I may have to use a different length fan spacer or etc. when the replacement radiator goes in, but I'm in the ball park now Before the distance from fan to radiator was "great". Along that line I'll need to make or find some V8 type sheet metal for the bottom and top "shroud" or "air dam"-don't know what its called, but to better direct the air into the radiator there are OEM pieces of sheet metal below and above etc. And I've got the 6cylinder sheet metal which is not gonna fill the new-larger-void. I'll probably just make something. They're probably hard to find.

wow! keep up the good work! guess i`ll have to get my but in gear and start working on mine!

I haven't posted anything to this thread for a while, but I see on my last I was talking about a new radiator etc. and somewhere's along this time line I got that bought and installed and all is working good. I bought an inexpensive replacement radiator at NPD for $329. I don't use the truck all that much but for sure it seems to be cooling well and i hope it holds up over time too, and I suppose it will. I added a not too pretty Radi-Acc coolant overflow accumulator type resevoir to give hot expanding water a place to go from and return to the radiator etc. and all seems good.

I've been busy with other projects and trucks but I'm planning to buy some rebuilding parts for the steering box next month and get that working better. The drag link and tie rod ends and king pins etc/all look pretty tight--good enough I think-but the adjustment to the steering box isn't helping much and its got way too much steering wheel play and is more uncomfortable to drive than necessary. I'm planning to buy the parts from Sacto Vintage Ford. The parts I need are listed in their catalog anyways/hope they still have all, and the prices are not high--at least the last time I looked.

Other future plans are to remove the existing 312 Y block intake and have it milled a little because the heads were milled a little in the past for higher compression etc and the intake with a gasket is a little hard for me to get a good seal now because of the existing misalignment. I'm Mr 10 thumbs. A better mechanic could do it. But if I have the intake milled on both sides a little that should fix all. I'm thinking about maybe going to a Edelbrock intake? Peeps argue I'll get way better performance with the better engineered more opened up Edelbrock etc, but I'm not sure I want to give up the vintage look of steel? I'll have to think about it. And of course maybe the intake was opened up by the previous owner who milled the heads? Maybe I can look and see. I'll have to ask the YBlock engine guys. There are some YBlock forums about.

Later

Darkside Dave wrote:
Hi Tom,
Glad to have you posting again. Don't know much about the Y-blocks so I'm no help there. I skipped that part of history by going from flatheads to the FE 390s and 360s as well as the first batch of OHV 6s. I don't know hwy but we are suddenly getting a few new members. Hopefully they will do some introduction posts and we can all get aquainted.

Later Man...

Sounds good Dave

Hey Tom
Good to hear you are still at it! I started working on my new shifter mounting, but didn't have a hole drill 1-1/2" for sheet metal. Instead of going bankrupt buying one locally I bought one via the internet, which just got here a few days ago. If it's dry this weekend, maybe I'll be able to drive my car into the garage from now on, instead of pushing it in!, My new goal is to get it street ready and drive it a while before messing with the paint. Want to make sure it doesn't need major reworking!

stevof1 wrote:Hey Tom
Good to hear you are still at it! I started working on my new shifter mounting, but didn't have a hole drill 1-1/2" for sheet metal. Instead of going bankrupt buying one locally I bought one via the internet, which just got here a few days ago. If it's dry this weekend, maybe I'll be able to drive my car into the garage from now on, instead of pushing it in!, My new goal is to get it street ready and drive it a while before messing with the paint. Want to make sure it doesn't need major reworking!

Good luck with that Steve. All sounds good. Ya I'm still plugging away. Like everyone I'm slowed down by money/not too much of it/the other. But I've got a lot of work in line. I picked up a front disc brake master cylinder for my 48IH and have a parts list of the remaining items needed including instructions on how to mod a caliper mount for all etc. Looking forward to better competing with modern cars for stopping power on the road. I like the old OEM drums on my custom 48--but being cool is not being so safe these days. I'd rather not punch into the back of someone and the front drums on the IH even though I think? working at 100% are just not enough.