Tomget's 48F1 build thread

I've had this truck for almost 2years now, and I've done a few modest improvements, but I've been busy with other projects-trucks-and whatever. So I'm trying to get focused on it now and get something done. I started this build thread to "hopefully" help me budget more time to this truck and get something done. I still don't use it as a daily driver because although it does run and I drove it home from Fairfield, ca when I bought it. It's not really road ready!! And I for sure don't plan on making this into some sort of "super build". My budget is pretty limited right now--like probably everbody else, but I'm gonna do what I can with it. My plan has always been to just "fix it up a little". I want to make it a good driveable work truck that looks "nice enough" but not "showy" or even close. I've built a few frame offs now and still have the more recent trucks, but I don't plan anything like that for this--but we'll see who knows. These builds have a life of their own. I start stuff with this or that planned, and somewhere's along the road I become a passenger not the driver. So who knows the future. But I'm hoping to just stich up the wounds etc and drive it. Its a super cool mostly OEM truck. I'm the 3rd owner--i think. I bought it from a guy who must be about 45? now and he got it in highschool. He's a pro mechanic and when going to the local JC back whenever he did the mechanical mods to it: installed a 57 312 y block, with adapter to OEM non synchro 4speed, plus some sort of early Lincoln? rear end. It runs--as i said--and I think? the motor is strong but everything else is kinda "wobbly" and needs attention. I've only driven it about 30miles since I bought it--as i said 2 years ago or so. And I thought it was too scary to drive!! The old bias plys and sloppy steering etc made me feel like i was gonna lose control from time to time--and I say that as a "certifiable" "car nut" who "should be afraid" but usually isn't. You know what I mean. So it must "really" be bad. I don't think its anything I can't fix. And I'm hoping to do just that. I like the setup just like it is. And for sure it needs to be rewired and have some dents smoothed over, but I'm not planning anything "fancy". It may be left with some of its "patina", but I'm not sure how that will go. And I'm not sure what "paints" I can use these days. I live in Napa County Calif and we have tons of envior paint regs that change each year etc. and anyway I still paint some in my own shop at home--and that's really not allowed and I've gotten by in the past, but don't plan on doing much of that in the future. I may even paint with some "brushes and rags" using some Rustoleum type products with additives etc. I've experimented a little and non glossy paint jobs don't look all that bad and still comply with the local laws etc. Dont' know for sure, but we'll see. I've attached a pic of the "day of purchase" a couple years back-I think around Sep 2007? I bought 2 F1's from the previous owner, and just yesterday I sold the other--a 49F1. The 49F1 was much rougher and was more of job than this old guy--me-wanted to take on. Too much "heavy lifting" and "heavy spending". I'm hoping this will be "lighter" in both respects.

Goodluck Tom

nice old truck!! new set of tires, paint the rims, beauty rings and it would look killer, mabe lower it a bit

Hey Charger

Thanks for commenting. Ya it really is a cool truck--at least to "people" like me--and you too! I'm not sure everybody looks at stuff like us lol. Ya it needs tires for sure. I'm hoping to stay with the bias/plys. I know its a "big" topic of argument and I have radials on my other trucks. And i like them just fine. I'm sure radials have the "tech" advantage. No doubt in my mind that they're better, and probably easier to keep running smoother etc/safer. But of course the existing bias plys are decades old--not particularly worn--but age damaged etc. So it'll steer lots better with "anything", but I so much value the 16wheels/bias ply "look", that I plan to order some Coker bias plys or? etc. And when I have the new tires mounted I'll sandblast the wheels. These wheels were "new" 15 or 20 years ago--they were replaced by the previous owner when they could still be purchased at a Ford dealer etc. So I'm expecting they should be roadworthy. They're not from 1948 but they are Ford wheels.

I really like "lowered" and even trucks with "haircuts", but in "this case" my current plans are going towards a more OEM look. And that "possibly" extends to even the "tall ride height". I think the tall ride height is what "frightened" me so much when I first would drive it around the "county" roads etc. It kinda feels like it might just "roll over" when go around curves etc. I think that's because its so "tall"-"high off the ground". I'm accustomed to driving a lowered "chopped truck" that has a really nice lower center of gravity. But, I'm still thinking of staying with the "tall" springs, because I'm thinking of "possibly" using this as an occasional "tow rig". You know for a car trailer etc. And if so I'm thinking height is good! But we'll see.

I don't know if you can see from the photo--but i got it with some VW bucket seats that arent' for me. And in more recent pics--I'll post more as I go along--you'll see that I've replaced it with a OEM bench. I got it at the Portland,Oregon big annual April 2008 swap meet. I have relatives up that way, and went looking. I found a great bench seat for little money. Around here they wanted an arm and a leg for crappy stuff.

But back to the wheels--i did paint them--for the moment and put some Ford caps on them, and I'm "planning" on staying with that look -- but? who knows. we'll see.

At the moment I even have an "old timey" steel sheet metal camper shell on the thing. Which I really like and plan to use with my "home made" "tow type" mirrors that have a "vintage look" to them. I got the plans from some guy on FTE a year or so ago and still haven't made'm. But with the camper shell--its a "bad" rear view look as it is.

I plan to post some pics that I've accumulated over the last 2 years as I've made a few changes since this recently posted purchase day photo that i took in Fairfield at the sellers house.

Goodluck Tom

Hey all

The truck was missing its front inner fender panels--so that the "early model" exhaust collectors+ could work the inner fenders were removed and lost along the way, but I found these in Santa Maria, Calif after advertising on Craigs list. The guy was good about the price and the shipping etc--I was very pleased about finding them. They're not that common around here. Is "anything" common when one "needs" it. I find "everything" when I don't "need it". I'm cutting out the early big aftermarket exhaust headers and replacing them with some block hugger type units that I bought at Sacramento Vintage Ford. I've done similar work before and it goes slow--for me. Cutting the tubing for the exhuast pipes and mufflers etc goes slow, but I get it done. I should just go to an exhuast guy, but for some reason-or disorder-I like to do all that i can myself. So I do it. When I did this work on my 58F100 I actually cut my finger so badly that I had to drive myself to the hospital emergency room late on a dark and cold winter night--I'll be more careful this time. They fixed me up fine-no problem. But it was kinda weird driving myself--couldn't find a neighbor and I was a little "light" headed about the whole thing. I made it fine but had to lower the windows and turn the radio on loud. I thought I was "fine", but my body was "worried" and I had to tell it to "calm down".

Good luck Tom

Hey all

I should have mentioned. The previous post/photo shows the "removed older aftermarket header". This is one of the Sacramento Vintage Ford replacement units.

Tom

Wow!!!!! what a great truck Tom.Keep us up to date with your progress and have fun.

Hey thanks Koth

I really like these F1's. I'm still learning about them. Today while chiseling away at ancient dirt/oil deposits etc I admired how nicely they made the front spring shackle assemblies. They're very heavy material and have an almost "attractive" look to them when compared to the flat pieces of steel usually used for this purpose. They're just a tad bit ornamental--imo. Its not like anybody is gonna see'm but its cool that they would "care" enough about design and materials to make an effort.

I went to the NAPA to get some new exhaust header bolts--the ones with the 7/16" heads, and they didn't have'm in stock-They'll be here after Turkey day--Friday morning and I'll attach the replacement block hugger headers then. And I wanted to show something about the new headers. I'm sure they'll be fine for my purposes, but others might want to know that the exhaust tubing is a little smaller than I would expect. I guess there's some "movement" about whatever size tubing is used--meaning more knowledgeable people than me discuss at length "scavenging" effects of exhaust valve trains etc--so I just know its an issue. But I don't know enough to say what's right/wrong etc. And in this case I see that the current block huggers I'm installing which I got at Sacramento Vintage Ford are actually smaller tubing than I'm removing and also as you look at the pic of the OEM 312 Y block header gasket-you can see the new header is actually smaller than the exhaust opening in the head. To me--not a mechanic at all--I would expect for the best performance one would want the openings to be the same size + or whatever to avoid unnecessary turbulence from escaping gases etc. But this is no "drag truck" etc, and I'm sure these will work fine for me--I'm not complaining. But if this fact is a concern for others--I want to point it out now. If its an issue they can see it. The new headers came with gaskets that fit the new headers--i won't be using OEM larger gaskets-and as you can see the header opening is gonna be actually a bit too small. I think it should be the same size as the heads' opening, but I'm not a mechanic. I'm not an expert. And I thought about possibly using my die grinder tool to somewhat open up this new header a bit, but I just don't see enough metal--the tubes are smaller-I'm concerned if i try I might compromise the sealing ability.
But I'll take a second look tomorrow and see if there's any grinding on the header to make a better fit.

The first photo shows the two different headers, and the second shows the new replacement block hugger headers with the OEM gasket that was used with the existing headers.

Goodluck Tom

Looking good Tom. If you come across another 48 seat let me know! Looking foward to watching this build thread. Steve.

Hey SteveO

Actually i do have an additional OEM bench seat. I remember when "I" was looking for even one. Now I've got "two" and don't need the second one. I'm sure we can work out a deal. I'll email ya. It looks pretty good, but whoever did the reupholstery put too much "whatever" probably foam into the back of the seat and they've made it kinda weird to sit on.
There's not enough room for one's butt. Maybe you can fix that yourself etc. or have it redone--whatever--but I used it for a while--and then I found the "better" one at Portland swap meet etc. The one I'm using now. But this other one is totally useable. I can't see into it--I don't know much about upholstery etc. so I haven't taken it apart etc. but it bolted into my truck at one time very nicely and doesn't look like rusty crap etc. So I'm sure it could be made good. The springs or foam whatever is in there-is a little "depressed" and slumps a little where the driver sits, but I'm sure that could be fixed with extra padding or whatever. This would be a good seat for you. I found it when I advertized on Craigs list a year ago?-close to you some custom shop on Gravenstein Hwy near Sabastopol--I think--I get those towns mixed up-don't go there much-it was called Acme Customs. Anyway I paid too much for it--I'll sell it to you for half what I paid. Like I said I'll email you with details.

Tom

Hi all

After taking a second look at the new exhaust headers I decided to go ahead and open them up a bit. I'm half done with it and I'll post pics tomorrow. But while looking around I noticed the two front motor mount cushions had done their job and needed to be replaced. And as luck would have it I not only "knew i had some of these cushiions somewhere", I actually found them! Both needing and finding!! WOW How often does that happen? Not common for me. I often tell the parts store guy I've almost got as much inventory as him--I just don't know exactly where anything is!. But this was good luck. So I put a jack under the motor with a piece of plywood to spread the load a bit, and put it under my steel OEM like oil pan. I loosened the existing mounts and just raised the motor enough to slide in the replacements. I used both some Blaster(my favorite oil to spray on rusted fastners) and my air impact wrench. The old fastners "shot" off! I like it that way. No heavy lifting. I had a set of cushions from Speedway that were "extras" somehow left from a previous build--and they fit just great.

Good luck Tom

Nice find Tom. I hate it when I know I have a part somewhere, but lose half a day looking for it and never find it! Then it's on the net special ordering, and when it gets here, I usually stumble across what I needed a day or two later!
On the seat note email me what you want for it Tom. I have a aftermarket bench seat in there now that works but would love to see if the original would fit with my automatic floor shifter where it is.
I too have to loosen up my motor mounts to jack up the motor to get enough clearance for my headers to fit. Just not sure if I want to do it before my initial engine fire up and break in. The new headers are Sanderson ceramic coated to look like polished aluminum, and they warn against using them in initial start ups. Problem is the drivers side stock manifold is right on the steering box so that I won't be able to connect exhaust pipe or muffler to it if I use it for the start-up which means a loud 20 minutes, making it hard to trouble shoot for any other noises....hum decisions, decisions!

Ya I hear ya about the Sanderson Headers. I "believe" i have the same ones. Ceramic coated? look like photo below. And I've probably got 2000miles on my truck. And you can see how they look. And they look fine to me, but I don't remember exactly how long I had my motor running on start up, because it was "built and ran for 20+min or whatever at FRP before I got the motor--so I didn't really need to follow the "cam break-in" + stuff like some. And I don't really recall how long I ran it. Too bad. So i don't know "specifically" how hot they got etc. But I'm sure it was at least 10minutes or so. Maybe I even went the 20minutes just to be sure? But didn't make a note and I don't totally remember. And mine aren't as shiny as when new-and I may have got a little paint overspray on them-or maybe they just change a little because of the heat, but they're still silver/alum looking. But for sure i recall reading the Sanderson startup warning etc and I thought they were just maybe protecting themselves in the event something unusual and "bad" would happen. And I didn't have the OEM cast iron headers so I just went ahead and did the startup with their headers in place. And of course-for sure-I'm not telling you to do that or whatever--I'm just giving you some "data" about what i did and you can add that to your total info available. I sent you an email on the seat--if you want you're welcome to borrow it and see if it fits before you buy it. etc no problem. Or just buy it-and understand that you can return it if it doesn't fit. Whichever. no problem

Goodluck Tom

Hi all

I went ahead and used my air die grinder to "open up the gasket&replacement block hugger headers" to fit the exhaust ports on the motor as best possible. Its not a perfect fit, but there's less of a mismatch. I tried to not go "wild" and compromise the sealing ability. And I dont' "think" i did, but I'll tell ya for sure after I get the tail pipes/mufflers fabbed. But even if I did I "believe" I can fix a leak in these--the way they're made--when they're on the motor without any problem. In the photos, the orange/white gasket is the OEM exhaust gasket laid over these replacement block hugger tubular units, and there's less of a problem than when I started.

Good luck Tom

Look good to me Tom I don't think you'll have any problems

Hey all

I'm getting back to my exhaust work today. Got busy with other stuff yesterday. I had some left over exhaust tubing plus various clamps and hangers from the 58F100 that I just finished, and I'm using that stuff to build my tailpipes etc. I bought a couple universal type turbo mufflers at NAPA that should fit good etc and they're cheap too. And I took the two pieces of tubing to a guy in St Helena with a little one man auto repair shop/out of his home almost/and he quickly while I waited bent each piece to my specs. I was planning to cut the tubes and weld in a little curved section because the tubes/mufflers etc need to be "raised up" a bit from the low hanging collectors. I don't like seeing my mufflers hanging down more than needed etc. Its one of those little things that bugs me on my trucks. I like to get the exhaust up and hidden as best I can. But anyway bending seems to me to be always preferable to cutting and welding on exhaust--if possible. So I'm glad I found the guy and he did it quickly for $20. Which is a good price around here. Things can be expensive. And it would have taken me hours--to cut and weld a "do dad" to accomplish this task so I'm happy. Its cold and foggy here and I'm outside with my hoody working under the truck, because with its camper shell and all its too "tall" to fit through my shop door etc. Its not really a hardship--first of all its Calif cold--low at night around 34degrees--that's freezing for us. I had to cover my orange trees the other day. I've got my trucks covered in my big driveway with some canopies that work pretty good. And as I get older and my eyesight is more of a problem I find the light outside is better than my shop lights. Even though the shop is well lit, its not as good as sunlight. Although I am rolling around in the gravel and dirt--but I just wear a hoody and change my clothes when I'm done. I've got a long cord on my MigWelder so I'll just wheel it out and do the welding in the driveway too.

Goodluck Tom

tomget wrote:Ya I hear ya about the Sanderson Headers. I "believe" i have the same ones. Ceramic coated? look like photo below.
Goodluck Tom

Yep those are the ones Tom. In your photo of your new exhaust pipes and mufflers, you have clamps attaching the muffler to the pipe. Are those welded joints too, or can you just use the clamps? I ask, because I'm sort of doing the same thing on my truck right now, and will need to mock up a exhaust after I get the engine up and running. I'm also ignorant to the ways of exhaust setups. In the past I've just run straight headers to the muffler shop, and let them put it all together. But I now own a mig welder and am hoping to be able to do this myself, like you!

Darkside Dave wrote:
Hey Tom,
where'd you get those neat looking support and clamp thingys for your spark plug wires??? That would be really cool on my 351W.

Later Man...

Dave I've seen them at both Summit and Speedway on the net. Lots of different manufacturers, but can be costly.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MFY-5015611/
Just use wire separators in your search box on either site. The ones above aren't bad and look like what Tom is running minus the bars, but those are on Summits site too!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNM-1102P/?image=large

Hi all

I got the mufflers/exhaust pipes etal installed. I started it up and drove it out into the street and let it run for awhile. All seems good. I don't hear any leaks-yet anyway. And the headers seem to be sealing good. There was a little smoking at the headers for a few minutes and I guess that was the new gaskets etc, but the smoking quickly went away and all seems clear now. I've just got it all clamped together at the moment. I'll get back under there tomorrow and weld it too. But first I wanted to see if there was any big leak or??? whatever etc.

Goodluck Tom

Hey Dave

You asked about the wire looms on my 58F100. Thanks I'm glad you likem too. They were for sure pricey and I won't be buying anymore anytime soon now that I'm retired/impoverished and all. But they were the right thing for that truck so I'm pleased that I bought them when i was still working. I don't recall where I bought them but I've got the "what are they" from my build notes, and these specific ones are from R&M specialties/custom machined billet/ "PN1108-P 429-460 polished". I think i bought them from Summit or Jegs?

They work good, but pricey probably.

Goodluck Tom

Hey SteveO

I see your question about how to fab your exhaust from the headers back on your F1/429. And my first thought is --Are you sure you want to? The reason I ask is that the exhaust I just put in the current build was much simpler than what you'll be doing. I did my own on my big block 58 truck but with these Sanderson headers which are "very nice" but I don't have to tell you how tight stuff is up around your steering box and maybe against the frame? on the passenger side? I really struggled getting that exhaust put together. In hinde site maybe I should have tried harder to have a pro do it. But I don't have someone here-locally-that I know and trust etc. And I thought? i could do an OK job, but after doing the 58 it was slow going and I probably wouldn't do it again? I don't think. Having a guy with a pipe bender etc for that tight complicated stuff--in my opinion gets one a better job etc than I was able to do on my 58.

And I'll be happy to tell you what I know, but be advised I'm some kinda self taught guy that does a lot of things wrong and just don't know all that much but I'll tell ya what or how i do it. And maybe you can look around and get additional info to.

I think the truck I just did-this F1 with the YBlock is a good example and since its fresh in my mind I'll jut quickly give you the basics of how "i did it"-and remember I may not be the best teacher etc.

So the black colored headers that i installed have a collector down below the tranny etc--easy to access etc and came with a 3hole flange loosely attached to each of the two collectors. I supplied 2 additional same size 3hole flanges and 2tapered funnel pieces of tubing about 5inches long that will slide through and work in conjunction with these 2 loose 3hole flanges along with a pair of correct size 3hole gaskets. I wish I knew what those "funnel" type short pieces of tubing are called, but they work to slide into your exhaust pipe and connect the 2pairs of 3hole flanges to your 2 exhaust collectors/passenger side and driver side etc. If i recall your Sanderson headers came with 4 funnel like adapters. These are two different sizes depending on which size exhaust pipe you choose to use. You'll have an unused pair left when you finish.

On the truck I just did it was easy-because the exhaust header collectors are way down and back away from where your collectors exit? Do you follow? That makes a huge difference in that yours will be hard to get to etc. because the Sandersons are "shortie" headers--all good, but the difference makes it harder for you to get to them and attach your exhaust pipe. Not impossible-I did it-but some would say a pro with a pipe bender could do better. I just cut a bunch of pipe from "curved" or "donut" shapes that you can buy from Summit or Jegs etc and you can "figure" what shape you need and cut the "donut" and weld the pieces to give you the angles you need. Hope this isn't impossible to understand. It would be easy to show you, but hard to explain. You need the "donuts" etc because you don't have a pipe bender etc. But in general I don't like cutting and welding exhaust pipe--I like to bend it. Its always better to bend if I can. You may not be familiar with "donut" shaped tubing? In case you're not it is a piece of round tubing that is made into a circle and is maybe a foot or two in diameter.

Anyway you can attachyour short funnel type tubing piece with the metal flange and the gasket via the needed 3 bolts-you probably don't want to weld anything yet. Just bolt it together. Fasten a pipe clamp to it eventually--but not now, wait until you have the mufflers and exhaust installed but do go ahead and tighten the 3hole flanges with a gasket and look to see that it looks evenly "seated" with the gasket etc. Next you could slide your exhaust pipe over the tapered funnel shaped adapter as need-it should squeese up tight, and then just continue working your way back around and up and over as needed to get to your mufflers. Slide them onto the exhaust pipe and use exhaust pipe clamps and exhaust pipe hangers to support all. Come out from your mufflers with with another pipe and go wherever-just keep staying away from anything that the hot exhaust pipe could damage etc. Use 2 exhaust hangers on each side of your dual exhaust. Usually a hanger and a clamp before the muffler and one somewhere after. And the hangers are attached to frame crossmembers etc or outriggers to fit wherever but somewhere attached to the frame-not the floor etc. You would usually have a pipe clamp at each union where pipes slide together--although you can remove them after welding if you wish, but I would assemble all and test the system before you weld anything. I do that because I'm not a pro and I can make mistakes and its easier to fix if I see a mistake when its all clamped, but not "welded". Start up the truck and listen for leaks-in your case with your 20 minute startup window you'll have plenty of time to listen.

All these fittings etc can be bought in "kits" at Summit etc. You just need to get the size that fit and get your mufflers with the "openings" and "exits" where you want them. And that can take quite a bit of planning for an amateur. Which is why you may be happier with a pro--in this situation.

I'm sorry this post is so lengthy, but its the best I can do. Maybe you can stop by. It would be much easier to show you all this stuff.

Goodluck Tom

tomget wrote:Hi all

I got the mufflers/exhaust pipes etal installed. I started it up and drove it out into the street and let it run for awhile. All seems good. I don't hear any leaks-yet anyway. And the headers seem to be sealing good. There was a little smoking at the headers for a few minutes and I guess that was the new gaskets etc, but the smoking quickly went away and all seems clear now. I've just got it all clamped together at the moment. I'll get back under there tomorrow and weld it too. But first I wanted to see if there was any big leak or??? whatever etc.

Goodluck Tom

Nice looking camper shell!!

Hey Charger

Thanks. I really like the camper shell too. It came to me on the 49F1 that I sold last week or so. I value it highly. I prepped the outside and used a brush to prime and paint it with oil based Rustoleum house paint. Its pretty much the only non latex paint we can buy around here. It seems to be holding up well enough-considering all, and it has a worn/funky semi gloss finish that while it still looks OK it kinda fits the patinaed look of the rest of the truck. I plan to fix up the body some more but no show car look etc. The camper is amazing. I've replaced the glass and even the rear "hatch back" door still works good. Not a big fan of camping myself, but I see at least a few overnight trips to the beach as a future possibility-creature comforts! Or maybe Woodstock will come around again. I missed it the first time. Well, I haven't changed all that much, I'd probably miss it again. But this truck has the look of the popular "hippie" vans and trucks that were so dominant around here in the late 1970's. Where have they all gone? Probably street rods now. lol

Gom

Tom

Tom thanks for the advice. I think when the time comes I'll take it to the pros!
I managed to get my driver's side stock exhaust manifold on, and still clear the steering box. I won't be able to connect exhaust to this side due to clearance issues with the steering box. I'm off work Thursday and Friday so I hope to get some wiring done and maybe if I'm really lucky Fire the beast Up!
How's the 48 running with the new exhaust?
Also any ideas of where to get a battery box that might fit on the firewall of the 48 F1? I'm headed to Summit on line for something generic with a clean look!