Darksider's Realm

(this is not a place for lazy video game freaks. We Darksiders have been around doing our thing for decades before the mindless couch blobs latched onto the term Darksider)



DARKSIDER In the world of automotive hobbyists a Darksider is one who modifies and or customizes any and all sorts of vehicles. The Darksiders are in a class of their own simply because they endeavor to be different and do things that others would not attempt for a number of reasons mostly being related to a lack of ability and fear of non conformity.

This is a forum for people who think outside the box in everything they do. It doesn’t matter if you are modifying or building from scratch. It doesn’t matter what brand or brands of vehicles or components you are using. It doesn’t matter if you are working on a mini car or a bus.

We will not be asking you for donations or any kind of monetary payments. We will be asking for help in terms moderators and encouraging you to spread the word and add to our membership.



Join the forum, it's quick and easy

Darksider's Realm

(this is not a place for lazy video game freaks. We Darksiders have been around doing our thing for decades before the mindless couch blobs latched onto the term Darksider)



DARKSIDER In the world of automotive hobbyists a Darksider is one who modifies and or customizes any and all sorts of vehicles. The Darksiders are in a class of their own simply because they endeavor to be different and do things that others would not attempt for a number of reasons mostly being related to a lack of ability and fear of non conformity.

This is a forum for people who think outside the box in everything they do. It doesn’t matter if you are modifying or building from scratch. It doesn’t matter what brand or brands of vehicles or components you are using. It doesn’t matter if you are working on a mini car or a bus.

We will not be asking you for donations or any kind of monetary payments. We will be asking for help in terms moderators and encouraging you to spread the word and add to our membership.

Darksider's Realm

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Darksider's Realm

A message board & forum for automotive builders, fabricators and customizers who think outside the box.


3 posters

    48 Ford F1 comes to life

    stevof1
    stevof1


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    Post  stevof1 Mon Jan 04, 2010 3:33 pm

    Hey there. I'm a friend of Tom's who was coming here to see his posts. I figured I should start my own build thread.
    I bought a started 48 Ford F1 hotrod, which was sitting outside in the rain for 7 years, not running, about 2 years ago. Since then I've got the old engine running, only to find it old and worn, and the tranny shot. To make things more of a challenge the engine and transmission were installed incorrectly at a 11 degree angle in order to clear a front cross member.
    Anyway 2 years later, it has a fresh rebuilt 460 with a c6 tranny. I have done a ton of body work, and frame alterations since the get go. The truck now has front disc brakes with a new brake booster setup. I replaced the stock rear end with a a 9" Ford with 3.0:1 gear ratio, larger drum brake direct bolt on from a 68 Ford Econoline van. I've put an aluminum gas can under the bed, and plumbed new lines for this and the brakes. This winter I got a new aftermarket high performance aluminum radiator and mounted that. This Holiday I was able to wire the ignition and fire up the engine for the first time. I'll post some of the photos of getting where I am today and also will include the startup video from yesterday.
    stevof1
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    Post  stevof1 Mon Jan 04, 2010 3:36 pm

    Here is the startup. Not too bad. Just a few shots of starter fluid, until the gas got to the carb and the Wha hooo! Now it's cam break in and the fine tuning!
    ford - 48 Ford F1 comes to life Th_truckstart004
    stevof1
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    Post  stevof1 Fri Jan 08, 2010 10:45 pm

    Worked on the fuel leak I had at the port coming out of the gas tank today. Turns out you shouldn't use teflon tape as a sealant on gas tsnk fittings. I found a better product called Gasoila Soft seal, which I appled to the fittings after draining the tank. I also mounted my inline canister fuel filter to the fire wall in the engine compartment, and will be installing a gas shutoff valve back closer to the tank, so that changing the fuel filer won't involve a giant gas dump.
    Once installed I'll tackle the timing issue of getting 50 degrees when running smooth? Trying to retard it only makes the engine stall. Could this be a Mallory Unilite Distrib/HEI thing, or has somewhere had this happen to them too? Thanks, Steve.
    Darkside Dave
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    Post  Darkside Dave Wed May 12, 2010 10:19 am


    Hey Steve,
    I just looked at your video. The thing sounds gooooood.

    I didn't at first realize you were making this a build thread until I read it again. So, I made your thread a sticky as I do all build threads. Sorry about not noticing sooner Man.

    Later...
    stevof1
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    Post  stevof1 Wed May 12, 2010 12:53 pm

    Thanks Dave! I haven't had a chance to do much work on the truck since firing it up. I'm currently installing a new shifter from B and M that is made for trucks. After I got a stock seat into the truck(thanks Tom), I needed to relocate the current shifter. My problem is space is so tight in the garage, that I can only work on it out side, and with all the rain we've had this spring, I haven't had much of a chance to get it outside. Once the shifter is in, I can start driving it in and out of the garage instead of pushing it! bounce
    Then it's body work and paint this summer until it gets wet again.
    I'm still at a loss as to why my timing marks seem to be so far off, though I am using a new aftermarket harmonic balancer, and timing cover
    not to mention a unilight distributor, but it seems to run great right where it is so maybe I'll leave that problem to later!
    Darkside Dave
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    Post  Darkside Dave Wed May 12, 2010 1:05 pm

    stevof1 wrote:
    I'm still at a loss as to why my timing marks seem to be so far off, though I am using a new aftermarket harmonic balancer, and timing cover
    not to mention a unilight distributor, but it seems to run great right where it is so maybe I'll leave that problem to later!


    Yep, some mysteries are better left unsolved. Just set it where it runs the best and worry about it later if it becomes a problem. If it runs good and does not buck when you start it then just mark it off the checklist and go on with other things.

    Later Man...
    stevof1
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    Post  stevof1 Tue May 25, 2010 1:33 pm

    Started working on the bed body this week. I built a 2x4 platform to make it easier to reach, and get it off the truck. The rear bed panel is pretty banged up, but I was able to get a new panel from LMC trucks along with a bed frame cross member that was missing. A new bed is too expensive, and this one has a custom roll pan that looks pretty cool, welded into the existing side panels and stake frames. Unfortunately, when I bought the truck, a former owner had put more modern rear fenders on it and drilled a bunch of holes into the bed frame that now all need to be filled. I put a pair of stock fenders on it and found they sit lower than the drilled holes, so patching from one side hidden under the fender as I hoped, is not an option. So I'll take a copper backer and slowly mig weld in the holes and then grind them flat! Lots of work ahead, but I have six days off from work so maybe I can tackle the bed during this time! I also found a color for my truck at the American Graffiti Car show here in Petaluma two weeks ago. It's a purple, but looks inky blue to black depending on the light.
    Here are a few shots.

    ford - 48 Ford F1 comes to life DSC_0003-3
    ford - 48 Ford F1 comes to life DSC_0002-1
    ford - 48 Ford F1 comes to life DSC_0005
    Darkside Dave
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    Post  Darkside Dave Tue May 25, 2010 1:47 pm


    Bummer on the holes Man...

    I do like the color of that truck. At first when I brought up your thread I looked at the pictures, first the bed and then that truck... I thought wow!!!, this guy is fast... Then I read your post. It is one cool looking truck though.

    I know what you are saying about the bed situation. I have two of them that are marginal at best but if I build one I found it's cheaper to do it from scratch. I can buy the steel and build to suit me. Which is probably the best move because I have to modify any existing bed anyway. There is just the matter of finding the right fenders. I have some that I think I can fix up.

    Keep us posted on your progress Man...

    Later...
    stevof1
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    Post  stevof1 Thu Aug 26, 2010 3:42 am

    Well I haven't posted in a while, but still cranking it out slowly. I've been working on tailgate latches and hinges aloong with stripping the bed to bare metal, and replacing rear bed panel. Right now I just have a little to go before all is bare metal. Then rust converter, epoxy primer and body work. Also managed to get 5 old bed/ fender bolts out and replaced. Got the paint I need to finish the paint job, which will now be a deep blue one stage paint from Summit. I'm slow because I hate body work, and I also am splitting time with keeping the dogs happy, the yard alive, deer hunting, and trying to be a good husband! Yikes no wonder it never ends! Laughing
    Darkside Dave
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    Post  Darkside Dave Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:03 am


    Hi Steve,

    Good to hear from you again. The point is you are making progress. I too am slow but I know why and if I had to go fast it would be the same as having a regular job unless you just like going fast. and BTW, my wife tells me I don't know how to be a good husband but she keeps me around for vehicle maintenance and lawn care.

    Later Man...
    stevof1
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    Post  stevof1 Mon Oct 11, 2010 12:23 pm

    Well as summer draws to a close, I've managed to finish stripping the bed to bare metal and then epoxy primering it. This week I took the hood apart and did the same to it, only instead of treating the rusted areas with Marhyde rust converter, I painted the entire under surface with Por 15. I figured there was some heavy rusting under there in tough to get at spots, so the Por 15 offered better coverage and levels out by itself when painted, plus it sticks to rust like it's welded on. Anyway after that I primed the hood and parts with epoxy primer. Nothing too exciting, but that just about covers the whole truck with epoxy primer which should let me get body fill done now, and hopefully a chance to paint before it gets to cold or wet!
    Here are a few pictures of where I'm at.
    ford - 48 Ford F1 comes to life DSC_0024_065
    ford - 48 Ford F1 comes to life DSC_0029_070


    It's funny the only part that came out spotty and rough was the top of the hood. At that point I mixed my paint differently. Instead of filtering the thick epoxy primer into my mixing cup through a filter, I mixed it with the catalyst first to thin it out, and then, filtered into my paint gun resevoir. On all the other painting I'd filter the primer first, then mix the catalyst directly into the filtered paint. The only other thing I can think of is one of the flow knobs on the gun got changed or, when I shot thinner through the gun between reloads, I might not of cleaned it good enough?
    ford - 48 Ford F1 comes to life DSC_0026_067
    ford - 48 Ford F1 comes to life DSC_0028_069
    Darkside Dave
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    Post  Darkside Dave Tue Oct 19, 2010 10:05 am


    Isn't a smoothly primed body part a thing of beauty???
    stevof1
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    Post  stevof1 Tue Oct 19, 2010 2:16 pm

    I agree Dave. Now it will be hours of tedious sanding and small ding/surface scratches to be filled. Not my strong point! Smile
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    Post  Darkside Dave Tue Oct 19, 2010 2:34 pm

    stevof1 wrote:I agree Dave. Now it will be hours of tedious sanding and small ding/surface scratches to be filled. Not my strong point! Smile



    Yeah, I'm hung up on that idea of finding some point between perfection and production. I guess that translates to something between a ten and twenty footer. If I were going for a show car I guess I could see the 10K$ paint and body jobs but since I want to drive what I build I am willing to settle for the kind of thing that shows up at our show what you brung shows, or maybe I should have said show what brung you. I like to see good work but I also like to see some homespun ingenuity and creativity. So much of the pure show stuff you see is really just a product of big wallets and lots of expensive chrome. I mean they are really pretty but you can't really drive them so what's the point??? Every time I will walk past them to see what some regular guy has done with a little money, a lot of time and creativity. I find the stuff I like at cruise ins, street shows and park shows. But hey... That's just me...

    Later Man...
    stevof1
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    Post  stevof1 Tue Oct 19, 2010 7:52 pm

    Dave you hit the nail on the head. I have less than 10 k in the whole truck, and don't have another 10 k for body and paint. so I'm doing it myself, and I hope to paint it myself too!. Tomget who recommended your site to me, who has his ford drag truck posted on here, has done some really nice work on his truck. I'm going to hit him up for some painting tips, but will be using Summit one step paint to do this truck at home, if possible! I figure it might cost more in sand paper and bondo, but a heck of a lot less in cash, by time I'm done. If it doesn't turn out to my standards, then I'll invest in a pro to spray it and touch it up!
    Darkside Dave
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    Post  Darkside Dave Tue Oct 19, 2010 8:57 pm

    stevof1 wrote:Dave you hit the nail on the head. I have less than 10 k in the whole truck, and don't have another 10 k for body and paint. so I'm doing it myself, and I hope to paint it myself too!. Tomget who recommended your site to me, who has his ford drag truck posted on here, has done some really nice work on his truck. I'm going to hit him up for some painting tips, but will be using Summit one step paint to do this truck at home, if possible! I figure it might cost more in sand paper and bondo, but a heck of a lot less in cash, by time I'm done. If it doesn't turn out to my standards, then I'll invest in a pro to spray it and touch it up!


    I'm actually planning on using Rustoleum with a hardener. Don't laugh, I've done it before and it can look pretty good if you take your time.

    stevof1
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    Post  stevof1 Tue Oct 19, 2010 9:32 pm

    Dave I've seen amazing paint jobs that were quite reasonable. They had a great review of Summits one step paint in hotrodder magazine last year. For around 400 bucks, you get enough primer, epoxy primer, base coat and clear coat to do an average car, that included the catalysts and thinners. Not to bad, and comparable to eastwood from what the Summit guys proclaim. Considering you can get a gallon of epoxy primer from them for the price of a quart around here, that is not too bad! Smile
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    Post  Darkside Dave Tue Oct 19, 2010 10:48 pm

    stevof1 wrote:Dave I've seen amazing paint jobs that were quite reasonable. They had a great review of Summits one step paint in hotrodder magazine last year. For around 400 bucks, you get enough primer, epoxy primer, base coat and clear coat to do an average car, that included the catalysts and thinners. Not to bad, and comparable to eastwood from what the Summit guys proclaim. Considering you can get a gallon of epoxy primer from them for the price of a quart around here, that is not too bad! Smile


    Yeah, I've heard good things about that stuff and if I were going for some metallic color I would probably be headed in that direction but since I want fire engine red this stuff will work fine. I did a '72 Ford 3/4 ton I had years ago and no one could believe it was Rustoleum. Now with the hardener it works even better. I just get a real rush out of how people react when they find out what I used. It really holds up under weather exposure and rough treatment. I did that truck in red with a white top and it looked great for the four years I drove it in some of the worst weather and road salt you can imagine. If I ever get around to doing my second truck, I do have a nice metallic blue in mind with silver bottom trim and that will probably be when I go for the Summit stuff. Summit started out here in Akron, Ohio. I live just about 125 miles away and I go up to that area often. I dealt with them when the worked out of storage facility in East Akron around 30 years ago. You should see their place up there now. I have always liked them better than all the competition. It's really hard to beat their prices and their service. So, you'll get no argument from me on the quality of service and values from Summit.

    Later Man...

    stevof1
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    Post  stevof1 Sun Nov 07, 2010 2:18 pm

    Well rain is officially here! I've been meanig to reassemble all the primed parts, but have to save up money for the welking, and gasget seals I probably will just dry fit the fenders and cowl vent for now, also waiting on a 12 volt motor and switch assembly for the windshield wipers. I found one a while back with an intermittant switch, but have since lost that lead, so am using the down time to try and find it again. I'd like to dry fit all the primered stuff, paint the interior, and then finish the wiring and drive out the bugs before final prep and paint.
    tomget
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    Post  tomget Mon Nov 07, 2011 1:10 pm

    Anything new happening on your truck Steve?
    stevof1
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    Post  stevof1 Mon Nov 07, 2011 2:21 pm

    Nope hit a standstill when I tried to fit my sanderson headers made for a 460 in a 48 f1. The drivers side header hits the steering box and motor mount. the only way to correct is to move motor foward about an inch and a half. Here is where the problems start, since that would include extending the drive line, changing the transmission mounts, draining about 150 dollars worth of synthetic transmission fluid, etc. So I haven't done a thing except ponder where to go from here. I contacted sanderson and they said they could trade the right side header for another configuration for the 460, only all of them are the same issues with fit around the steering shaft and box. Still hoping for an easy solution,other than using stock exhaust manifolds.
    in the mean time the economy has caught up to the budget, so we are trying to make ends meet. Also theft of catalytic converter and bumper on the old toyota has mucked up the budget, as well as broken appliances, vet bills, etc. So the poor old truck sits waiting for me to get ahead, and find some other solution to the header issue. I have done some more body work(free minus my labor) on the hood, and rear fenders. I also have a new set of fiberglass running boards and a front fender lower skirt. I'd love to put the hood back on and the fenders to clear space in the garage, but don't want to fight the hood if I have to muck with the engine. Also I have the wiring harness so I could work on that too. Just been sidetracked. Lately I've been making beer, and hard cider. I fould a 1875 apple press in Sebastopol last winter, that I cleaned up and built a new wood hopper, and juice trough, and treated all the cast iron with por 15, and a food grade enamel. So since apples are abundant right now, I've been hand cranking away(330 lbs apples in the last two weeks and about 120 more earlier in August. I need some bitter varieties to blend into the cider, so I'm on the lookout for crab apples, norther spy, etc...to balance out the next batch. Just call mee Jonny Apple Steve!
    How are your projects coming along? Any drag races in the Ford truck? Also how's the F1 coming along? Good to hear from you Tom, Steve.
    tomget
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    Post  tomget Mon Nov 07, 2011 3:26 pm

    Sorry to hear about the header problem. That sucks. I thought those things would fit? Never put them on an F1, just thought I've seen it, but maybe misremembering. You may be able to sell the Sandersons and find some sort of ready made tubular headers for your motor/F1 combination. Catalog places like Sacto Vintage Ford etc. I bought some inexpensive tubular headers from them for my F1/312Y block and they're fine. Not pretty or probably all that tuned for performance but work fine. Also I had some exhaust work done in Sonoma at a place called Muff-N-Stuff at 19285 Sonoma Hwy 938-3019. At that time--maybe early 90's it was owned by Gary Heon. Its still there. Don't know who owns it. But they did all kinds of hot rod work--the actual header mods you might need? Not sure. But they might have advice...?

    And I totally understand about your budget concerns--me too:). I was working four days a week since last spring--I think I told ya--as a field tech for a agri lab, but its seasonal and after the harvesting--which has mostly happened, my job has ended until next year. They may call me for an occassional drinking water sampling or soil gathering for lab tests etc, but not much work. I get social security and for sure that helps--but there's no "extra" money.

    Your cider sounds cool. I recall your commenting about it on FB. And btw I used to have a customer overhere on Silverado Trail---who divorced and moved--but his couple acre "cider/apple hillside orchard" might still be there. Its probably the apple you're looking for. If you want me to I can look as best possible to see if the orchard is still there. I know his wife sold the place. I could give you the address--don't know who their names might be, but you could likely stop and ask etc. He was "big time" serious about cider and had money so put in some sort of specific cider apple trees etc. Don't know the specifics--but not apples for eating.



    stevof1
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    Post  stevof1 Tue Nov 08, 2011 4:47 am

    Thanks Tom that would be very cool to get more apple sources. I'm working on adding a few varieties to my back yark as bare root starts this winter!

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